How Many Photos Has This Camera Captured?

Fifteen years ago, this question was very significant (for most cameras) as an indication of wear and remaining functional life. If you were to purchase a used camera, you would certainly want to know the answer to this question. Today, this is not as true as it used to be.

Mechanical/moving parts are subject to some degree of wear. Metal parts suffer from friction. Plastic parts may become brittle. They eventually wear out. Get maintenance or get rid of it. But many of today’s digital cameras don’t have moving parts and do not suffer the same effects of wear. They have electronic sensors and electronic shutters.

Cameras have commonly remembered how many times the shutter has been actuated (how many photos have been captured). Through various means, you may be able to retrieve that information from a camera. In many digital cameras today, shutter count information may not be available at all. Furthermore, digital cameras are often used to capture video (rather than still photos) and the shutter count isn’t useful information.

That being said, I recently decided to sell a DSLR from 2015. Any DSLR certainly has mechanical parts and the shutter typically has an expected lifespan. As I had used this camera for still photography (not video), the shutter count is useful information. But retrieving this information from the camera proved a bit difficult. Here are several methods that generally might succeed, but in the case of my camera, I found that only one of these methods succeeded.

  • If you have software that shows EXIF information within an image, every digital photo may include the shutter count.
    Didn’t work. While all digital cameras report EXIF, not all cameras include shutter count in that data.
    (Online comment: “Last camera from Canon with shutter count in EXIF was EOS 1D II N.”)
  • Some websites: you upload an image from your camera and it will read shutter count from the EXIF information
    Didn’t work. See explanation above.
  • FreeShutterCount (freeware)
    Requires installing some 3-rd party USB drivers … no thanks (I’m not going to risk installing some unverified USB drivers on my computer.)
  • EOSinfo (freeware)
    Doesn’t work with my camera model.
  • EOS Digital Info (freeware)
    Doesn’t work with my camera model.
  • DIRE Studio Shutter Count (freeware)
    Apple/Mac only; I don’t have any Apple/Mac devices.
  • Tornado EOS
    Multiple people have reported this software contains malware.
  • AstroPhotography Tool (APT)
    Reported shutter count = 30,000

An online search for “expected shutter lifetime Canon EOS cameras” tells me that this camera model should happily provlde 200,000 shutter actuations without any problems. My camera has 30,000 shutter actuations.

A Small Nuisance (DJI drone controller RC-N1)

The standard hand-held remote controller for several DJI aerial camera drones is RC-N1. (These drones include DJI Mini 2, Mini 3, Mavic 3, Mavic Air 2 and 2S.) While this controller includes a small USB cable that hides when not in use, the cable commonly cannot be attached to a smartphone if that phone has a protective case. It fits any phone with a USB-C port but not if there is a protective case on the phone.

Here are two products that solve that problem. One is an adapter and the other is a replacement cable.

USB C 3.1 Extension Cable 90 Degree Male to Male Gen 2 (10Gbps)

USB C 90 Degree Adapter Up Down (2 Pack) Low Profile

I keep the adapter in my drone carry bag for when I might need it. As it is quick and easy to attach, there is no need to leave it attached at all times.

The replacement cable is a bit thicker and bulkier than the standard DJI cable; it does not store nicely in the folded controller; see the photo here. You can decide for yourself if this is acceptable.

Telescopic Pole Camera

Telescopic Pole Camera

This photo was carefully planned, for the time of year (trees are in bloom), the location, and a somewhat unusual downward angle. The human experience here (Boston Public Garden) includes sky and nearby skyscrapers. I chose to eliminate the sky and skyscrapers through use of a high camera position looking down. However, elevating the camera can be a difficult problem if there is nothing to stand upon.

One of my favorite photographic tools is a telescoping pole with a camera mount at the top.  Combined with a camera equipped with wi-fi, the camera can be raised up to 20 feet and operated from a mobile  app on a smartphone.

A telescoping pole is often the best choice for a camera height of ten to twenty feet.  To photograph from a height of forty feet or two hundred feet, I can use a small aerial drone. While a drone can be used at altitudes of fifteen or twenty feet, that could readily be a distraction and a nuisance to people who are trying to enjoy the park. 

On multiple occasions my photographic intentions have been thwarted by the presence of utility wires strung upon poles.  While I could have flown an aerial drone above the wires, I instead chose to use a telescopic pole and place the camera twelve to eighteen inches below the wires.  Personally, I don’t want to fly a drone that close to wires. Unlike a drone camera, a pole-mounted camera can’t move suddenly and potentially collide with wires.

For comparison’s sake, I shot the same scene with the camera at eye-level.  The location I chose for my photo was occupied by a nine-foot-tall shrub.  The pole-mounted camera enabled shooting over the top of this shrub in the foreground.

Mavic 3 Photo Quality vs. Mavic 2 Pro

Mavic 3 Photo Quality vs. Mavic 2 Pro

Although the Mavic 3 includes some groundbreaking new features, many reviewers will render their opinions about such things and I will not do so here.  I am only analyzing the photo quality from Mavic 3 with comparison to the predecessor Mavic 2 Pro.

Mavic 3 includes two cameras.  I am comparing the main camera to the camera of Mavic 2 Pro. The Mavic 3 main camera has a fixed-focal-length lens, 4/3 image sensor, and variable aperture.

The Mavic 3 supports capturing photos in either JPEG format or JPEG & RAW. While I almost always capture photos in RAW format and I do not need a JPEG, the initial release of MAVIC 3 will always save a JPEG.  That could possibly change in a future firmware update.

See the end of this post for a link to my 2018 comparison of Mavic 2 Pro image quality, compared to original Mavic Pro.

Testing the Mavic 3 at sunset … f\3.2, ISO 100

The main camera of Mavic 3 uses a 4/3 image sensor; this has implications.

  • The image rectangle has an aspect ratio of 4:3, which is same as Mavic 2 Zoom but is different than Mavic 2 Pro and Mavic Air.  For me personally, this implies that I must crop each image and discard some pixels to obtain a final image of 3:2 aspect ratio.
  • Four-thirds and Micro Four Thirds (MFT) are established standards. The diagonal measure of a 4/3 sensor can vary but is typically around 22mm.  Compare this to Mavic 2 Pro and Mavic Air 2S, which each have image sensors with diagonal measure around 16 mm.
  • A larger sensor can allow for either more pixels or larger pixels.  The Mavic 3 pixel resolution is not significantly different than Mavic 2 Pro.  Likely the individual dot elements (pixels) are larger.  Potentially that might translate to better ability to gather light, potentially reducing the signal-to-noise ratio.  But that is theoretical.  As the old saying goes, the proof is in the pudding. 

Some online articles suggest that the larger image sensor “gives Mavic 3 higher resolution and dynamic range” but …. higher resolution is a dubious claim and higher dynamic range is theoretical.

DJI drones have historically employed Sony Exmore image sensors; DJI/Hasselblad cameras are no exception. I must guess that the Mavic 3 is using the Sony IMX472-AAJK, but I have not confirmed this.  That sensor can capture all 20 megapixels at 120 frames-per-second.  Notably, this sensor uses “stacked CMOS” technology and is the first ever stacked CMOS sensor in the 4/3 size.  This sensor diagonally measures 21.77 mm.

The Mavic 3 user guide (available online) includes this disturbing note: “Before shooting important photos or videos, shoot a few images to test the camera is operating correctly.”   I shudder to imagine what might have happened during initial product testing to warrant such a warning.

Pixel Resolution

If you want a final image to have3:2 aspect ratio, then any 3:4 image must be cropped and that includes Mavic 3. Technically, you end up with fewer pixels than Mavic 2 Pro and Mavic Air 2S.

Mavic Air 2S @ 3:2 aspect  ………………  5472×3648  = 19.9 million pixels
Mavic 2 @ 3:2 aspect  ……………………… 5464×3640 = 19.88 million pixels
Mavic 2 @ 4:3 aspect (crop from 3:2)… 4852×3640
Mavic 2 @ 16:9 aspect (crop)…………… 5464×3070
Mavic 3 @ 4:3 aspect  …………………….. 5280×3956 = 20.88 million pixels
Mavic 3 @ 3:2 aspect (crop from 4:3)… 5280×3520 = 18.58 million pixels
Mavic 3 @ 16:9 aspect (crop)…………….. 5280×2970

Color

Opening RAW images in Adobe lightroom, the color is a bit green. That’s correctable but really annoying; I’m guessing this problem is because Lightroom/Photoshop/CameraRAW do not yet include a camera profile for Mavic 3 (Hasselblad L2D-20c).

Looking at the JPEGs, the color looks good – not vibrant, but good.

Sharpness

Comparing images from Mavic 3 and Mavic 2 Pro, at aperture f\3.5 and f\4.0, the two are equally sharp at center of the lens.  However, away from center, toward the edges of the image, Mavic 3 exhibits improved sharpness over Mavic 2 Pro.

High-magnification crop from the original RAW image

Image noise

Considering all ISO 100 through 3200, Mavic 3 shows less luminance noise than Mavic 2 Pro. However, at any ISO, low light situations can result in considerable chroma noise in both shadows and midtones.  It is worst at IS0 800, 1600, 3200.  While it can usually be mitigated using noise-reduction in post-processing, the 4/3 image sensor should not exhibit this problem.  

As the camera saves both RAW and JPEG, I looked at the JPEGs.  Luminance noise is reasonably mitigated through ISO 1600; mitigation can be dicey at 3200.  Chroma noise is essentially eliminated. However, not surprising, this noise reduction comes at a price –  loss of sharpness.

Luminance noise in shadows … ISO 400, daylight with ND4 filter … N0te: ambient light and altitude are not identical

Mavic 3 … chroma noise in low light … ISO 1600

Chromatic aberration

In some situations with high-contrast fine detail, Mavic 3 can suffer from chromatic aberration similar to the first-generation Mavic Pro.  Although Mavic 2 Pro significantly reduced chromatic aberration, Mavic 3 is a step backward. This is observed with the clear DJI lens cover; I haven’t tried it yet with the naked lens.

Mavic 3 (RAW image) shows improved sharpness, but also shows chromatic aberration in railing balusters

Shadow detail

Considering detail in the darkest shadow areas, Mavic 3 has a slight advantage to reveal details that Mavic 2 Pro cannot. The difference is quite small.

DJI has stated that the Mavic 3 main camera has 12.8 stops of dynamic range, which is not significantly greater than Mavic Air 2S or Mavic 2 Pro.

Highlight detail

Both the original Mavic Pro and the successor Mavic 2 Pro often failed to resolve subtle detail in highlights. This commonly manifests in architectural details that are white,such as clapboard siding and trim mouldings.   Mavic 3 does shows a slight improvement.

Images captured with Mavic 2 Pro – particularly images that include architecture – have commonly required a great deal of effort to safeguard highlight details. At the time of capture, exposure bracketing saves an additional exposure wherein the highlights are rendered with reduced brightness.  In post-processing, that exposure is developed carefully and specifically for hightlight details.  Then those highlights are manually blended into the other exposure.  Only time will tell if Mavic 3 eliminates the need for that extra work.

Remote control

Apart from the camera itself, I must mention the remote control.  With the Mavic 2 Pro, I have very commonly used the camera control dial under the right index finger.  With Mavic 3, the RC-N1 remote controller has no such control dial; exposure settings can only be controlled via touch-screen. The expensive RC Pro controller includes a dial for right index finger, which I vaguely believe controls camera zoom and I do not know if it can be used for exposure purposes.  I did not spend the extra $1000 to get an RC Pro.

Mavic 3 … , daylight with ND4 filter, f\4.0, ISO 400


Here is my investigation of the Mavic 2 Pro, back when that was released in 2018:

Geofencing -The Difficulty of DJI Drones

On multiple occasions, my intended drone flight was defeated because my DJI drone refused to spin-up the propellers.  Although the flight is authorized by the FAA, the drone refuses to launch.  With proper planning, this problem is avoidable.

DJI drones include a safety feature known as Geofencing, which is intended to prevent flying in areas that are could be unsafe, particularly near airports. There are different systems of understanding the airspace and the DJI system is entirely different that the system employed by the FAA. 

Local airport facility grid

Anywhere around controlled airspace, maximum flight altitude is determined a grid layered across a map; each grid-square indicates maximum altitude.  As this is local to the facility/airport, it is commonly referred to as the facility grid. 

A flight plan that does not exceed the stated maximum altitude can often be approved in seconds by a computer, without need for review by a person. This is made possible by a computerize system called LAANC (low altitude authorization). Submit your flight plan via a mobile app that supports LAANC. If you succeed in receiving authorization, you may need to export that information and then submit it to DJI to unlock your drone.

For years, I used a LAANC-enabled app called AirMap. Recently, that failed (and I found some rumors online why that might be true). Ultimately, I was forced to switch to a different LAANC-enabled app and I now use Aloft (https://www.aloft.ai/), formerly known as Kittyhawk.

If your drone is locked and will not launch, flight authorization from the FAA – by itself – does not unlock a DJI drone.

DJI Geofencing

Based upon the current GPS location, the drone automatically is aware of local flight restrictions. Potentially, it can refuse to take off.  In some cases you may be able to unlock it from your flight controller; this is called self-unlocking.  In other cases, self-unlocking is not allowed and you must request unlocking DJI Fly Safe (https://www.dji.com/flysafe). FAA flight authorization is a prerequisite.

In advance of your flight, always check the DJI Fly-Safe geofencing map.  If you’re flight is either fully or partly in a blue zone or red zone, you will need to manually unlock the drone.  DJI GEO system shows approach paths to airport runways and it is these areas that are likely to be considered no-fly zones. DJI did not invent this system; it is based upon LATAS (Low Altitude Traffic and Airspace Safety), which I have read was pioneered by PrecisionHawk.

Do not wait until you arrive at your launch location before checking that your drone will be able to launch.  Research in advance: weather, FAA controlled-airspace restrictions, NOTAMs, and DJI GEO restrictions. 

In specific geographic locations, your drone controller may display “NFZ”, which means “No-fly Zone”. When locked due to a NFZ, the drone can only be unlocked via the DJI Flysafe website; it cannot be unlocked via self-unlocking. 

(I remember a conversation with a police officer in Boston when he asked to check my flight authorization. When I told him the drone would not launch in a specific location, he suggested that the pilot can simply unlock it and I told him that is not always true.  Clearly this guy does not have personal experience flying DJI drones within the class-B airspace of Boston Logan airport.)

On mobile devices (e.g. smartphone), the Fly-Safe website reports that unlocking is not supported on the mobile website.  The solution is to use a full-screen computer.  Do this at home before you drive off to your launch site.

For custom unlocking via the DJI Flysafe web page, you probably need a computer.

Upon submitting your request, two things happen.  You will receive an email that states “Unlock application is created.”  The web site shows you that the request is “Pending review.”

If all goes well, two things will happen.  You will receive a subsequent email  within less than 10 minutes stating “Unlock application is accepted.”  The website shows you that the request is “Accepted.”

Your login username must match: Flysafe web site & the mobile app.

Import the unlock certificate to the aircraft

What happens next is not entirely obvious and requires a bit of care.  You launch the app for piloting (e.g. DJI Go 4 or DJI Fly) and find the menu item “Unlocking License” (DJI Go 4 app) or “Unlock GEO Zone” (DJI Fly app).  The app retrieves any unlocking authorizations via the Internet.  This requires two things.  You must be connected to Internet data (e.g. Wi-Fi or cellular data network).  Whenever you launch the app, you must be logged-in and the username must match the username that you used when requesting the unlock.  (I have once stumbled because I had inadvertently used a different login, the unlocking license could not be found, and my intended flight did not happen until after I solved the mystery.)

If all goes well, your unlocking authorization will be listed.  You’re not quite done yet; there are two more steps to unlock the drone. Though the license is recognized by the remote controls, the license must be copied to the drone.  Look for “Import to Aircraft”.  Do that and the app will then show that the drone has the license and it appears with a on-screen enable/disable switch.  As the default is “disabled”, you must slide it to “enable” before the drone will finally unlock the NFZ. The display on remote controller will change from “NFZ” to “Ready”.

NOTAMs (Notice to AirMen)

Mobile apps that support LAANC will show you both the boundaries of controlled airspace (class-B, class-C, class-D, class-E ground level) and all local facility grids. However, most of these apps do not show active NOTAMs. To see active NOTAMs, simply look at Skyvector.com. Active NOTAMs appear as red circles.

Hollywood Cinema – DJI Is Coming After You

Hollywood Cinema – DJI Is Coming After You

To stabilize a camera for video filming, we have seen several types of stabilization:
(1) Large Steadycam body-mounted on a vest. (This was invented around 1975.)
(2) Hand-held stabilizers that rely upon counter-balance weight
(3) Computerized gimbal operated with two hands and support cinema cameras such as RED, Sony, Canon, etc
(4) Computerized gimbal that can be held with just one hand and support smaller cameras
(5) Very small devices including camera and gimbal with a total weight of 16 oz or less.
(6) In-camera mechanical techniques for stabilzation, either lens-shift or sensor shift
(7) Digital image stabilization

Computerized gimbals have been a game changer, invented around 2012. The larger 2-handed category has been dominated by Freefly MoVI series and DJI Ronin series of products. These systems do not include camera, video monitoring, or follow-focus.

Today, DJI introduced another game-changer – the new DJI Ronin 4D. This is no longer just a stabilization device, rather it is a complete system, including the camera. Surely many film-makers will not readily abandon their trusted cameras and lenses, but at first glance, Ronin 4D does seem to be a game-changer.

Cost: The complete system is less than $10K. Compare this to assembling a comparable system from separate components. Either a RED Komodo or Canon C300 Mark III will set you back more than $8K and that does not even include any lens.
The built-in ND filters is a pretty big deal; can potentially eliminate need for a bulky matte box.
The LIDAR system looks truly amazing.

The Ronin 4D Cinematic Imaging System includes:

  • Cinema camera: 6K @ 120 FPS, or 8K @ 75 fps, or
  • 10-bit Pro-Res
  • Six built-in ND filters
  • Computerized 6-Axis stabilization gimbal
  • 7″ touchscreen video monitor, detachable and wireless
  • LIDAR focusing system
  • long-range wireless 1080 video transmit (with encryption and frequency hopping)
  • 2.5-hour battery

Schooner at Gloucester Harbor

In addition to visiting Gloucester this weekend, I also ported all my photography and tools to a new computer. As I imported new images from a camera drone, I took the new computer on a test drive to verify that my tools were all in good order.

This scene had both very bright highlights and very dark shadows; I doubted that a single exposure could contain both the highlights and shadows. As you likely know, such situations are known as high dynamic range (HDR). I captured a bracket of three exposures. In retrospect, it was a wise choice. The middle exposure was spot on, however the foreground was nearly black and some background highlights were blown out – white boats and white buildings. The darker exposure provided correction for the blown-out highlights. The lightest exposure was used to replace the black foreground water with dark-blue water.

Initially, I processed each of the three in Lightroom and then combined them together using Photoshop. From Lightroom, open the three images using “Edit In” -> “Open As Layers In Photoshop”. Once opened in Photoshop, select all three layers and choose “Edit” -> “Auto-Align layers”. Here, there are six Projection options; I chose “Reposition” because the three images were identical composition that varied only by exposure.

A selection of the highlights was applied as a layer mask on the darkest layer, such that only the highlights are used from that layer. A selection of the foreground dark water was applied as a layer mask to the brightest layer such that the foreground is lightened. The resulting image is shown here on the right.

From there, I applied three image filters by Alien Skin. First was Bokeh, to blur the image – except for the schooner. Then I used two different variations of Snap-Art. All this was done through Photoshop. Upon saving all of this (TIFF file), I was back in Lightroom. Judicious use of brightness, clarity, and color saturation enhanced the simulated brush strokes. The end result is shown here on the left.

Update for Aerial Drone Pilots & Photographers

If you’re using an aerial drone for photo or video (or anything else), the FAA has released new rules for drone pilots. These changes do not take effect immediately but are very significant.

Flying over people

FAA part 107.39 has prohibited flying a drone over people (beyond flight operations staff participating with the pilot in charge) unless the pilot obtains a formal waiver from the FAA.  As a pre-requisite, the applicant must be a certified remote drone pilot in accord with FAA part 107. 

Beginning in 2023, certified Part-107 pilots will be allowed to fly a drone over people and a waiver will not be required.  However, there is no change for recreational pilots (not certified); recreational pilots are not allowed to fly over people and no waiver can be obtained.

This also applies to flying over moving motor-vehicle traffic.   

Specific restrictions require some form of protective guard around spinning propeller blades that might lacerate or otherwise injure a person on contact.

FAA Executive Summary, Dec.28, 2020: https://www.faa.gov/news/media/attachments/OOP_Executive_Summary.pdf

Flying at night

Currently, FAA part 107.26 prohibits flying a drone at night unless the pilot in charge obtains a formal waiver. As a pre-requisite, the applicant must be a certified remote drone pilot in accord with FAA part 107 and the drone must be equipped with particular lighting.

Beginning April 21st, 2021, certified pilots will no longer be required to obtain a waiver … if knowledge of night operations has been demonstrated via FAA drone pilot exam.  The certification exam (to become a Part 107 Certified drone pilot) will be modified to include questions about night operations.

Remote ID

“Remote ID” is sometimes referred to as digital license plates for drones. Beginning April 2022, all new drones will be required to include Remote ID.  And beginning in 2023, all drone flights (using any drone, old or new) must broadcast Remote ID.  Small drones that weigh less than 0.55 drones are exempt from these new requirements.

Remote ID is not entirely analogous to automobile license plates.  Remote ID broadcasts (via either Wi-Fi or Bluetooth) the drone’s unique ID, the current location of the drone, the location of the remote control (location of the pilot), and an emergency indicator (e.g. low battery).   Many people are concerned that broadcasting the location of the pilot could provide an open door to thieves (a drone may be considered an item of value) and to people who simply hate drones and wish to harass the pilot.

If you already own a drone – or you purchase a new drone in 2021 – and it does not include Remote ID, you will be able to purchase an add-on device that fulfills Remote ID requirements. This add-on device is sometimes referred to as a beacon. The cost should be $50 or less. There is a slight difference regarding the specific information that is broadcast. Because a beacon cannot track the location of the pilot, it will broadcast the location from which the drone was launched.  If the pilot then walks away from the launch point, the beacon does not have information about the pilot’s location.

If a drone has built-in Remote ID, possibly it may refuse to launch if Remote ID is not operational. I don’t think we know that yet. 

Remote ID for drones is similar to ADS-B for manned aircraft.  In general, drones will not be allowed to broadcast ADS-B nor ATC; this is apparently what airplane and helicopter pilots want.

Remote ID, FAA Executive Summary, Dec.28, 2020:  https://www.faa.gov/news/media/attachments/RemoteID_Executive_Summary.pdf

Recurring Pilot Test

To maintain certification, the FAA has required remote pilots to pass a recurrent exam every two years. That exam has been conducted in-person under watch of an authorized proctor. However, this is being replaced by an on-line recurrent exam and a fee will no longer be charged to take the recurrent exam.

The official timeline called for online testing to be available March 16, 2021 but that did not happen. The revised timeline says it should be available today, April 6, 2021.

The new online exam will include questions about Remote ID and night operations.  This presumably includes such topics as diminished depth perception, lighting requirements, etc.

See: https://www.faa.gov/news/updates/?newsId=97022

Gloves for Winter Photography

Author Kevin Davis with the Meteor Mitt by Outdoor Research

Operating a camera can be difficult (or impossible) while wearing gloves or mittens.  This problem is compounded if your fingers are very prone to becoming cold – perhaps your fingers get cold at a temperature that causes no trouble at all for some of your friends.  That’s the subject of my video: Gloves for Winter Photography.

Available products change every year; companies routinely invent new models and some older models may be discontinued. Of those that I have personally owned and used, here are my favorite lightweight gloves for mild temperatures (all are touch-screen compatible):

#3 REI: Grip Gloves
#2 Black Diamond: Powerweight Liner Series
#1 Burton: Screen Grab Liner

In the past ten days, I have twice used a glove seen in the video, a pop-finger fishing glove by Palmyth, which I paired with a touch-compatible glove liner. In advance of a snow forecast, I selected these gloves to wrap burlap around shrubs, a task that involves twine and tying knots. And for photography, I used these same gloves to pilot an aerial drone. With my fingertips covered merely by a glove liner, operating the touch-screen was beautifully easy. However, for a flight that lasted less than 15 minutes, my fingers soon became cold. As the air temperature was 33 degrees (f), this solution was barely adequate and would be a terrible choice for a shoot lasting an hour at that temperature.

Shown here are a couple specific glove-mittens (a.k.a. glomitts) that I tried but personally decided that they didn’t measure up. Both include a pocket to hold a heat packet, which is a nice feature.

The first is an insulated glomitt from Cabellas. Unfortunately the finger openings were so snug that they could not accommodate a base-layer, a glove liner.  Since bare fingertips is not practical for my cold fingers, this product was unacceptable.

The second is an unusual full-finger glomitt, the Heat3 Smart glove. The interior glove and exterior mitten are fully integrated, the glove is not removable.  Having read very favorable reviews of this product, I tried it.  However, I was disappointed and promptly returned them. Considering the cost of these gloves is $150 (or more), I can get a battery-heated solution for about the same money.

Despite the exceptional construction, the shortcoming of this glove occurs when in half-mitten mode.  With the mitten folded back and fingers exposed, this product is no better than a lightweight glove. If I need an extended period of time making photographs (with the mitten folded back), it simply is not adequate.  A slightly better solution is a half-finger glove with a lightweight glove underneath; therein, the fingers below the knuckle have a double-layer while the fingertips have a single layer.

I must also note that the Heat3 Smart gloves include a magnet. That can be problematic; see tip #7 in my video about gloves.

Recovering Family Photos from Film

Recovering Family Photos from Film

Film Scanner

Recently, I borrowed some old photo albums from my mom. These photos were captured either on negative film or Polaroid instant film.  For posterity sake, I am converting these old photos to digital.

For either negative film or slide film, a computer accessory to scan film can still be purchased today, but I had an old Nikon scanner collecting dust. This scanner is more than a decade old and the interface to a computer is Firewire, not USB. As Firewire has fallen out of favor, most computers do not have a Firewire port. However, my aging laptop does have a Firewire port. Yet I had to overcome two problems. First, having upgraded the laptop to Windows 10 last year, Win10 does not include a driver for Firewire. Second, the port on the laptop is a different size than the cable from the scanner.

With some difficulty, I eventually did install a legacy Firewire driver. And a bit of research online told me that Firewire connectors can be 4-pin, 6-pin, or 8-pin.  Purchasing a 4-pin to -6pin adapter (which can be seen in the photo here) allowed connecting the scanner to the computer.

Nikon no longer supports this scanner and the last software release was intended for Windows Vista (a short-lived version of the OS in between Windows XP and Windows 7).  After considerable research and effort, I could not get this software to function on Windows 10. However, in the past, I had also used a third-party application called VueScan and I found that I still had that 10-yr-old software installer.  After installing that and configuring it to run in Windows-7 Compatibility Mode, I was able to successfully operate the scanner.

If you don’t have a film scanner, you can buy a new or used scanner … or send your film to a lab that provides scanning services.  While I was still struggling to get my old scanner operational, I looked online and saw a used Epson V600 for less than $100.  This was my backup plan, which I now do not need.  The important feature here is that the V600 can scan both 35mm and medium-format films, which is important to me but may not be important to you.

Many labs provide scanning services; just search online.  I have done this in the past with good results. The resulting digital photos may be provided to you via internet download or on a CD-ROM.  (Be aware that labs may charge you a fee for each physical disk, perhaps $5.)

Two services can convert still-photo film, motion-picture movie film, and VHS videotape:  LegacyBox and Kodak Digitizing Box (yes, Kodak, an old trusted name in photography). But I have not personally tried either of these services. If you only need to digitize 35mm negatives or 35mm color transparency film, other service providers may be less expensive.

Personally, I don’t want to digitize ALL the old film photos because most of them are discardable snapshots that do not show important memories. It makes sense to extract the few negatives or slides, scan them, and then return the original to where I found it. For this reason, I chose to do the scans myself rather than send it out to a scanning service.

A smaller number of photos were shot on Polaroid instant film. This is outside the capability of a film scanner.  However, these can be scanned using a flatbed scanner or an all-in-one computer printer (printer, fax machine, scanner all in one). It just so happens that I acquired a new all-in-one last year and I have found that this is adequate to scan the Polaroid photos.

Hypothetically, let’s say you’ve just scanned a photo of somebody’s 18th birthday. (My mom was very careful to annotate each photo with the date and subject, usually written on the backside of the photo.)  You’ll want to save that descriptive information with the photo.  The final step in scanning an image is to rescue the “metadata” – the descriptive information.  The digital photo will be either a JPEG or TIFF file. Both these formats include metadata and you will need some sort of software application that allows you to write that information, notably a particular item called “Description”.  I personally used Adobe Bridge but there are numerous other alternatives.